This is not a pizzeria butted against a dead-end alley. This is a portal to something wondrous. People who get in, never get out. At least, they never get out the same.

I’ve always shrugged off critics’ view of Barnett Newman’s Midnight Blue as “a portal to the sublime”, but this Pizza Resraurant made me think there’s some truth in it.

The secret is to link up tangible experiences with abstract generalisations. The difference is that Barnett Newman ain’t gonna give you no pizza, and no Chianti.